From time to time you may be required to cover colour-based skin problems or other extreme unwanted colours on the skin. This would include vitilago, bruising, port wine stains, rosacea, varicose veins and other dermatological problems. You may also be required to cover things on their skin and that they would like to have covered, or the ability to cover, from time to time. A good example of this is a tattoo.
Technical Application for covering a tattoo
Tattoos are basically ink placed into the upper parts of the epidermal skin layers with a tattoo gun. Tattoo guns operate similar to a sewing machine. A motor forces a needle to vibrate up and down, forcing ink into the skin. A professional usually does this tattooing action in a light-handed manner. Some tattoos have not only the tattoo, but also a dimensional ridge on every line and space coloured by the ink. This is caused by harder pressure from the tattoo gun against the skin, causing scaring eventually healing to a slightly raised part where the ink is applied. While you can cover the tattoo, cosmetics cannot cover the dimensional part of the skin from this scarring. In other words, all tattoos can be covered but prepare your client for small ridges that might appear as a result of the ink being covered by the cosmetic revealing the scarring. This cannot be helped and as it is a result of unnecessary pressure from the tattoo application.
Colour selection is important in covering a tattoo. Covering the tattoo is the process of not only covering but to imitate the surrounding skin tone around the tattoo as well. Needless to say the selection of the right colours is extremely important. This also gives the artist the ability to adjust colours in layers thus correcting and colours that do not look like skin tones. The initial layer is a colour closely matching the skin tone. Additional colours may be two shades lighter and two shades darker, which will help to blend the Foundation colour into the skin. The trick is to blend, as far out away from the tattoo as possible so the eye never sees a line of Foundation. A tattoo on someone’s side may blend completely around to the centre of the back and to the centre of the stomach.
There are three different application techniques that need to be described before proceeding to the detailed application of the tattoo by DMK Cosmetic products.
- Stippling method – Incorporates the use of a non-latex Sponge and the DMKC Foundations. Once the Foundation is loaded to the Sponge, a stippling (up and down patting motion) is done directly on the tattoo. You need only stipple three to four times before you need to reload the Sponge. When you stipple more than four times you start removing product from the skin back to the Sponge and sheer the layer of Foundation even more.
- Swipe and stipple method – uses non-latex Sponge and the Foundations like the above but the application process is different. Using the Sponge, apply a generous amount of Foundation on the skin using longer strokes. Continue doing this until your tattoo is covered with Foundation. Then apply a shearer layer of Foundation, using alternative colours, over the area of the tattoo with the same Sponge like in the stipple method.
- Neutralising and camouflage – using the right neutralising colours, neutralise the tattoo colour(s) by applying DMKC Neutralizers to the areas of the tattoo. Sometimes this can be difficult because the purple in a tattoo may have to be neutralised first by neutralising the red in the purple ink, then neutralising the blue. If not exactly, you can possibly end up with a muddy mess. After the tattoo is neutralised, apply a layer of HD Perfectly Clear Loose Powder (see powdering section) followed by a sheer layer of the correct Foundation. Additional Foundation colours may be needed to blend the edge of the Foundation into the natural skin.
Additional colours might be needed as well to duplicate or blend covered skin with natural skin. For example, you may have to add dots of darker Foundation to resemble birthmarks, freckles or a vein. Pay particular attention to this. By adding these types of effects, you create additional distraction from the original tattoo. Use the small corrector Brush and the right colour Foundation, eye pencil, or even bluish colour eye-colour to resemble a vein or other colour you need to duplicate.
Because of the layering effect with the DMKC Foundations, it will be necessary to powder the Foundation. This is done so the layers can be set between applications and not to eliminate shine produced by the Foundation. DMKC Foundations are formulated without oils and oily waxes. The purpose of this powdering is to set the make-up so that the layers will not blend together (especially in the neutralising and camouflage type of application) and to add extra protection so the make-up will not rub off against clothes and others.
Detailed steps for covering a tattoo
Stainless Steel Palette
Stainless Steel Spatula
DMKC HD Clear Powder
Premier Powder Brush
Small Foundation Brush
3 or 4 DMK Foundations (for altering the cover to imitate skin tone)
- Using the Stainless Steel Palette and Spatula, get a generous portion of the Foundation colour that matches the skin tone and place it on the palette. Using the flat side of the Spatula, mix the Foundation colour using friction to cream up the product, this will make stippling easier.
- Using a Sponge, take a generous amount of Foundation from the Foundation Palette and cover a large portion of the tattoo with long strokes. Repeat this process until the tattoo is covered with the first layer of Foundation.
- Take the HD Clear Loose Powder and apply a generous amount of powder over the Foundation. Press the powder into the Foundation with the powder puff. Brush away the excess with the Powder Brush. (For additional information on powdering see the section on Powdering)
- Take the Spatula and place a generous amount of two to three other accent Foundations on the palette in separate locations. These colours can be a little lighter, darker, close undertone matches or even highlighting colours. You will have to look at the Foundation that is on the tattoo you applied in step 2 to know exactly how to adjust the colour(s). Remember you are matching the skin tone. Look at the skin and see where the skin tones change. Load the Sponge and commence a stippling motion (as in the stippling technique) over the Foundation. Rotate the colours to reflect realism. Blend the colours out away from the tattoo into the skin so as not to show a line of demarcation of skin and Foundation.
- Check your covering and make sure the tattoo is completely gone and covered. If not, cover areas by stippling.
- Load the Powder Puff with the HD Clear Loose Powder and repeat the process of powdering the entire area where the Foundation(s) have been applied.
Your tattoo should now be covered. This process can be used for covering any type of problems on the skin. It is important to note the dimensional part of covering tattoos, as well as working with burn survivors, you will need to offer an additional explanation to the client. Make sure the client fully understands your abilities to cover the colour and not the dimensional part of the area.
Covering problem skin can sometimes be a challenge. Your best result will be from practice and making mistakes. If you know someone who has a tattoo, birthmark, or other secondary skin colouring problem, ask him or her if you can sometimes practice on him or her. Who knows, you may get them as a skin revision client or a DMKC client.