While HiLites accentuate the areas that need to be accented, contour colours (2 to 3 shades darker than the Foundation) will diminish or de-emphasise areas of the face. It is a process most ladies carry out everyday when they apply cheek colour. Yes, cheek colour is actually a contour for the cheeks. It ‘hollows’ out the cheek area while adding warmth to the face. Ladies also ‘contour’ with colours around the eyes to make the eyes appear larger. Lip lining is another form of low-lighting that make the lips appear fuller. These are the common forms we do not think about as contours.
In this section we contour the face and place shadows in areas that will assist the HiLites to define. This is also particularly useful when the client needs the nose thinned, cheeks ‘deflated’, neck sculpted, or additional definition on the eyes. Most people, when doing their personal make-up do not perform this type of application. Contouring or low-lighting will enhance the face by accenting its corresponding HiLite. A good rule to remember is: for every HiLite there is a LoLite. DMK Cosmetics offer the following LoLite colours.
There are two LoLite Correctors available in two different sizes. Individual sizes come in a flip top, mirrored compact with a net weight of 18 oz./5 gm. All Correctors are also available in a refill size for the palettes at .11oz./3 gm. LoLites have a variety of uses, therefore there is no set amount of applications per product.
LoLite 1 – Café
LoLite 2 – Espresso
Taking the clean Contour Brush, apply the LoLite colour to the face, opposite areas on the face where the HiLite is placed. Pay particular attention to areas above the jaw line and the inner parts of the orbital areas. Highlighting and low-lighting can be performed on a case- by-case basis depending on the sculpting needs of the client. A successful correction is accomplished when there is an absence of obvious application colour, which makes the skin appear natural and void of the appearance of make-up. A contour is a darker colour that is placed against the skin. If blended improperly it will give the appearance of dirt or darkness; too much contour placed in the wrong places on the face will make the face look thin and drab. To avoid this, refer to the ‘applying contour to the face’ section of this manual.
Steps for applying LoLites to the face
- Take a small amount of the correct DMK Cosmetics LoLite and place on the palette in close proximity to the Foundation. Mix the contour in with the Foundation. This mixing creates a base tone related contour, based on the tonal value of the Foundation. It also makes the contour easier to blend into the skin because of the close colour relationship with the Foundation.
- With a DMKC Corrector Brush, apply the contour to the area you want to de-emphasise. This might be areas on top of the jaw line, under the jaw line, or inside the corners of the eyes.
- Take the DMKC Sponge and lightly stipple over the area, paying particular attention to the edges where the contour and Foundation meet.
- You are now ready to apply powder. For detailed powdering instructions see Powdering Section in this manual.