Premier Foundation Information
DMK Cosmetics Foundation is a water resistant, oil-free Foundation with over 50% pigmentation. DMKC Foundations provide clients with ultimate coverage devoid of caking or creasing. The Foundations also contain anti-ageing properties that can work to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles without a heavy look. Its unique formulation and superior qualities are blended together to create a flawless canvas with little or no maintenance.
DMKC Premier Foundations come in 3 forms
Retail and Professional Size is a .34 oz./9.5 gm. Flip top compact with mirror and box. Offers approximately 100 applications depending on the coverage required.
Palette Refill Size is a .11 oz/ 3 gm insert for refills into the Foundation palettes offer approximately 10 applications per refill depending on the coverage required.
Foundation Palettes Each 6 colour palette features 5 Premier Foundations as well as 1 highlight especially suited for the Series. Each Series is represented in all 5 palettes. Each individual colour in the palette can be replaced by refills listed above.
Ingredients details and uses for Premier Foundations
Is used in cosmetic formulations as a solvent, carrying agent, pigment wetting agent, fragrance fixative and emollient. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula, Ethylhexyl Palmitate is used as an emollient that helps the cosmetic to glide on to the skin evenly. It also helps the cosmetic to blend with other colours.
Hydrocarbon ingredient used as a solvent. Isododecane enhances the spread-ability of products and has a weightless feel on skin. All hydrocarbons used in cosmetics help prevent the evaporation of water from the skin. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Isododecane is a weightless product that allows the cosmetic to spread evenly on to the skin.
Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Cosmetics companies are always interested in improving the aesthetic and performance properties of cosmetics. Currently available colour cosmetics are vastly improved compared to concoctions that women wore in the early twentieth century. Much of the improvement is due to the availability of many different synthetic polymers that are customised to provide specific functional properties when incorporated into cosmetics. For example, in past years, longwearing cosmetics were achieved by incorporating natural resins such as Sandarac Gum or Cellulose Polymers. These natural substances had many drawbacks, not the least of which included inconsistency in properties from batch to batch.
Now Synthetic Polymers such as Silicone Resins provide this property in addition to being consistent across batches. Such resins are inexpensive, relatively easy to manufacture, and widely available. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Bis- Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer allows the cosmetic to spread on to the skin evenly, but it also disappears through evaporation after several minutes of being exposed to the air. This product replaces all oils that would normally be in a cosmetic that stay on top of the skin and cause major skin irritations and extended maintenance for professionals as well as individual users.
Silicon is ubiquitous in the earth. Silicon, like carbon, can form polymers. Dimethicone is a fluid mixture of Siloxane Polymers sometimes referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). It is optically clear, and is generally considered to be inert, non-toxic and non-flammable. Dimethicone is the most widely used Silicone Polymer, and is particularly known for its unusual rheological (or flow) properties. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Dimethicone does the same as the above within the silicone family. Its properties are to accelerate the complete evaporation while helping the cosmetic to flow on to the skin evenly.
Polyethylene is used for a variety of purposes in cosmetics and personal care products. It is used to unite or bond surfaces together and to hold together the ingredients of a compressed cake. Polyethylene can be used to dilute other solids, or to increase the thickness of the lipid (oil) portion of cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components. Polyethylene dries to form a thin coating on the skin, hair or nails. When used in oral care products, it polishes the teeth, reduces oral odour, or otherwise cleansed or deodorises the teeth and mouth. Small beads made of Polyethylene are also used for exfoliating, smoothing or polishing the skin. In the DMK formulation, Polyethylene is used as a binder holding together the powder and base components. It also has some waterproofing and long lasting qualities.
A synthetic compound derived from fatty acids. Used as an emollient and moisturiser. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Isostearyl Behenate provides moisture to the cosmetic without using oils or water.
Mixture of glycerin and fatty acids used as an emollient and thickening agent. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Trihydroxystearin is used as an emollient rather than a thickening agent.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a liquid made from coconut oil. In cosmetics and personal care products, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in the formulation of lipstick, eye make-up, foundations, blushers, perfumes, moisturisers, suntan and sunscreen products and many other products. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is made in a highly refined process to make the raw material non-oily and oil-free. Only the highly processed triglyceride has this property.
Stearalkonium Hectorite is a creamy white, fine powder. In cosmetics and personal care products, Stearalkonium Hectorite is used in a wide variety of products including lipstick, eye make-up, nail polish and other manicuring products. Surfactant - suspending agent’s function by modifying a solid’s surface characteristics by adsorption. Changing the surface properties of a solid, keeps the particles from coming together and falling out of solution. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula as a suspension agent that keeps the pigments and opacifiers in the formula from settling into the Foundation.
Propylene Carbonate is a clear, odourless solvent with a high boiling point. In cosmetics and personal care products, Propylene Carbonate is used in the formulation of make-up, primarily lipstick, eye shadow, mascara and in skin cleansing products. Propylene Carbonate is used to dissolve other substances and is frequently used with clay gellants. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Propylene Carbonate is used as an agent to dissolve some of the mineral and clay based minerals in the DMK Cosmetic.
BIOCENCE™ botanical complex is a globally approved, paraben and formaldehyde free preservative system for the personal care, OTC and toiletry industries. This proprietary complex of ingredients is based on a carefully balanced blend of highly effective natural and organic green biocide flavonoid components in an emollient base for optimised preservation for use in a variety of applications and products. BIOCENCE™ botanical complex provides comprehensive protection from microbial contamination, including Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, fungi, yeasts and molds. As a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, BIOCENCE™ botanical complex can be used alone as the primary preservative in a product as well as a preservative base formulation for OTC products. This minimises the total amount of preservative and formulation needed to ensure proper preservation while simplifying the formulation process. It is safe, non-toxic and non-irritating and there is no evidence that it causes skin or eye sensitivity. BIOCENCE™ botanical complex is compatible with most personal care, OTC and cosmetic ingredients, including complex molecules such as proteins and surfactants. BIOCENCE™ botanical complex is a versatile, easy to use liquid, highly stable and effective over a broad pH range. BIOCENCETM botanical complex is a unique, and economical preservative complex, which helps provide safe and stable finished products for the health, personal, OTC, and beauty market. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula BIOCENCE™ is used as a preservative.
BIOCENCE™ has a separate ingredients listing of: Aqua, Alcohol, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Melaleucs Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract and Ricinus Communis Seed Oil.
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Beeswax is a wax secreted by honeybees. Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, also called Candelilla Wax, is obtained from the plant Euphorbia cerifera, which is a plant that grows in North Central Mexico and the Texas Big Bend area. Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, also called Carnauba Wax, is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian tropical palm tree, Copernicia cerifera, while Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, also called Japan Wax, is obtained from the berries of the sumac Rhus Succedanea, which grows in Japan and China. In cosmetics and personal care products, beeswax and the plant waxes are used in the formulation a wide range of products including baby products, bath products, lipstick, make-up, fragrances, colouring and non colouring hair products, nail and skin care products, personal cleanliness products, shaving products as well as sunscreen and suntan products.
In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax is refined without oils in the raw materials manufacturing process and gives the DMK Foundations strength and sturdiness. It is also a weatherproofing agent that helps to make the cosmetic waterproof.
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Copernicia Cerifera (Carnuba) Wax is processed in a non-oil fashion as a medical grade raw material and is used partly as a weatherproofer, and as a structure to build the cosmetic body. Its natural colour also offers some opacifying properties as well.
Isopropyl jojobate is often used in cosmetic formulations as a pigment wetting agent and emollient. It is often found in lipsticks, eye shadows, blushers, Foundations, (especially stick Foundations) and hair dyes. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Isopropyl Jojobate is used as a wetting agent.
Jojoba Alcohol is the alcohol fraction obtained by the saponification of Jojoba Oil. Jojoba Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetic formulations. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Isopropyl Jojobate is used as a wetting agent to keep the cosmetic from drying.
Jojoba Esters are mainly used as emollients in cosmetics such as lipsticks, shampoos and moisturising lotions. Jojoba Esters may be ethoxylated to form such water-soluble materials as PEG-150 Jojoba, PEG-120 Jojoba or PEG-80 Jojoba. Jojoba Esters are excellent botanical substitutes for whale oil and its derivatives, such as cetyl alcohol and spermaceti. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Jojoba Esters are used as substitutions for the oils that are used in normal cosmetics.
The properties of semi-crystalline polyamides are determined by the concentration of amide groups in the macromolecules. Nylon 12 has the lowest amide group concentration of all commercially available polyamides thereby substantially promoting its characteristics:
Lowest moisture absorption: Parts show largest dimensional stability under conditions of changing humidity.
- Exceptional impact and notched impact strength, even at temperatures well below the freezing point.
- Good to excellent resistance against greases, oils, fuels, hydraulic fluids, various solvents, salt solutions and other chemicals.
- Exceptional resistance to stress cracking, including metal parts encapsulated by injection moulding or embedded.
- Excellent abrasion resistance.
- Low coefficient of sliding friction, in dry running against Steel, polybutylene terephthalate, polyacetal, and other materials.
- High process ability.
In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Nylon-12 is used for all of the above plus the Nylon-12 structure helps to minimise the appearance fine lines and wrinkles when combined with DMKC encapsulated pigments.
Silica, when contained in foundation, adsorbs sweat and oils in skin, which prevents light reflection and keeps make-up on the skin longer. Spherical particle type of Silica improves the smoothness and spreading of foundation and cream. The smooth surface appearance of nail polish is created by Silica particles in the polish. Porous Silica is used as an ingredient in powder perfume, which can keep the fragrance on the skin for a longer time. Silica is contained in antiperspirant, which gives the smooth feeling after it is applied on the skin. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Silica as an ingredient that absorbs oils as well provides a matte finish.
The first line of difference in the antioxidant army. Tocopherol, or vitamin E, a fat-soluble vitamin, is a naturally occurring antioxidant whichcanbeisolatedfromvegetableoil.Whenisolated,Tocopherol is a viscous oil that varies in colour from yellow to brownish red. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Tocopheryl Acetate is used for its anti-ageing.
A natural preservative, Ascorbyl Palmitate, is a fat-soluble form of ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. Unlike ascorbic acid, which is water- soluble, Ascorbyl Palmitate is not water-soluble. Consequently Ascorbyl Palminate can be stored in cell membranes until the body requires it. Many people think vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palminate) is only used for immune support, but it has many other important functions. Ascorbyl Palmitate is an effective free radical-scavenging antioxidant barrier, which protects skin health and vitality. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Ascorbic Palmitate provides an anti-oxidant.
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Also known as Japanese Green Tea, the leaf of this plant is an antioxidant. When applied topically, it helps to protect the skin from the effects of free radicals in the environment. The leaf is also known for its soothing properties. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract is used as a skin protectant.
Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract
Powerful anti-oxidant. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract is used as an anti-oxidant.
Malachite comes from the Greek word “Mala’khe” which means “the colour of mallow”, a plant whose deep-green leaves were widely used in medicine. Malachite is a stone extract with a strong antioxidant and detoxifying activity. It is a general skin protector and can be used in all cosmetic treatments. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Malachite Extract as a detoxifying and anti- oxidant.
Hyaluronic Acid (also called Hyaluronan) is a component of connective tissue whose function is to cushion and lubricate. Hyaluronan occurs throughout the body in abundant amounts in many of the places people with hereditary connective tissue disorders have problems such as joints, heart valves and eyes. Hyaluronic acid abnormalities are a common thread in connective tissue disorders. Interestingly, they are also common biochemical anomalies in most of the individual features of connective tissue disorders such as mitral valve prolapse, TMJ, osteoarthritis, and keratoconus.
Hyaluronic acid has been nicknamed by the press as the ‘key to the fountain of youth’ because it has been noted that at least some people who ingest a lot of it in their diets tend to live to ripe old ages. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Hyaluronic Acid is used for its anti-ageing properties.
Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract
Pro-Active patented material extracted from the Noix de Grenoble walnut that helps cutaneous cells organise their own defence against all signs of ageing and is focused on preventing damage, not merely repairing it. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract is used for its anti-ageing properties.
Note: All pigments used in DMKC Foundation products are high quality encapsulate pigments. This is not a standard cut flat pigment that will lie in the crease of a wrinkle, but is an oval or oblong shaped pigment that is not only encapsulated (or covered with a special acetate so not to change colour due to the acidity or alkalinity on the skin) but refracts the light in many directions to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The flat cut pigments, lying in the wrinkle reflect like a mirror increasing the light and making the wrinkle more noticeable.
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
In cosmetic and skin care products, Titanium Dioxide is used both as a pigment and a thickener. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Titanium Dioxide is used as an opacifier.
Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)
Iron pigments are also widely used in the cosmetic field. They are considered to be nontoxic, moisture resistant, and non- bleeding. Iron oxides graded safe for cosmetic use are produced synthetically in order to avoid the inclusion of ferrous or ferric oxides, and impurities normally found in naturally occurring iron oxides. Typically, the Iron (II) Oxide pigment is black, while the Iron (III) Oxide is red or rust-coloured. (Iron compounds other than oxides can have other colours.) In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Iron Oxides are used as colour pigments. They are all minerals.
Mica (CI 77019)
Mica is a group of silicate minerals that are widely distributed in different types of rock. Mica often occurs as flakes, scraps, or sheets, and has been used by humans since prehistoric times. Because Mica comes from the earth it may contain trace amounts of heavy metals. The FDA regulates the levels of heavy metals in Mica, and the small amounts that may eventually be in cosmetic or personal care products do not pose a risk to human health.
Steps for the proper application of DMKC Foundations
Stainless Steel Palette
Stainless Steel Spatula
Special note: This application is to be done immediately after the application of Crème Glacé. For more coverage do not use Crème Glacé as a primer. See special needs application section.
- With the DMKC Stainless Steel Spatula, take a small amount of Foundation and place on the palette. You can work the Foundation on the palette using friction to ‘cream up’ the Foundation if you prefer.
Note: If you are blending colours to match the skin tone perfectly, clean the Spatula with a tissue and take your second colour and apply to the palette. Mix the colour (or colours) well.
- Place a clean DMKC Sponge onto the palette and place a small amount of product onto the Sponge.
- Starting in the centre of the forehead; start spreading the Foundation onto the skin using long strokes with gentle pressure. Applying a sheer coat will provide plenty of coverage. You can also use one of two Foundation Brushes to apply the Foundation. The use of the Sponge or Foundation Brush is up to the artist.
- Make sure your Foundation blends well all over the face, including the eye sockets, eye lids, under the eyes, corners of the eyes, around and under the nasal area and under the chin. Blend from the chin line down to clean skin to remove any lines of demarcation.
- You are ready to highlight and contour using DMK Cosmetics HiLites and LoLites.
Tip 01: Take the Sponge you are going to use for the client and clean the Spatula with it. This will clean the Spatula, and load the Sponge with product. There is no need to waste product. If additional make-up is needed on the Sponge, pull directly from the palette.
Tip 02: The DMKC Sponge is specifically designed to accommodate all areas of the face. Use the pointed end to put Foundation into hard to reach areas on the face. Use the blunt or larger end for application and blending.
Tip 03: Use the Sponge to apply Foundation to the major areas of the face and the Foundation Brushes to reach into orbital areas as well as nasal labial folds and around the nose.
Tip 04: If the client demands more coverage, stippling (or dabbing the skin with a Sponge) will allow the Sponge to deliver a greater amount of product to the face.