Application of the Crème Glacé

Crème Glacé Information

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Is an HD occlusive make-up primer that will cover fine lines and
wrinkles as well as prepare the ‘canvas’ of the face for the make-up
application.

Size

30 ml (1.0 oz) jar and should provide about 40-60 standard
applications. Each jar is packaged in a box. Expiration: 90 days from
date of cap opening.

Ingredients Usage in DMKC’s Crème Glacé

Cyclomethicone
Cyclomethicone is a clear, odourless, silicone-based liquid that is incredibly useful and versatile in a number of bath and body recipes. It is a synthetic unmodified silicone that stays on the surface of the skin - the molecules are too big to physically penetrate the upper living cells.

Because it evaporates relatively quickly, it is most commonly used to carry fragrance or essential oils in linen sprays, body sprays, and roll-on dry perfumes. It is also used in lotions to impart a slick, silky feel - and is widely used in hair treatments.

There are many different varieties and grades of Cyclomethicone. DMK Cosmetics’ formulation is a medical grade, high quality blend of three types of Cyclomethicone that offers protection to the skin and an easy application with the DMK Foundation Formula.

Isododecane
Hydrocarbon ingredient used as a solvent. Isododecane enhances the spread ability of products and has a weightless feel on skin. All hydrocarbons used in cosmetics help prevent the evaporation of water from the skin. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Isododecane is a weightless product that allows the cosmetic to spread evenly on to the skin.

Isohexadecane
Isohexadecane is a high purity, iso-paraffin emollient and solvent used in cosmetics and beauty products. Although it is colourless and odourless, it creates a very creamy, thick formula. However, for all of it’s rich texture, Isohexadecane leaves a non-greasy, light and silky feeling on the skin. It is most often found in foundations, sun care products, lip products, deodorants and antiperspirants and make-up removers. A study was published in Contact Dermatitis in 2004 that concluded that Isohexadecane does not cause contact dermatitis. In the DMK Crème Glacé formulation Isohexadecane is an emoillient that leaves the skin feeling silky.

Zinc Oxide (CI77947)
Zinc Oxide is a natural source pigmented mineral, quarry mined and further refined to a fluffy white powder. It is commonly found in cosmetics as a whitening agent and it is also found within sunscreens because of its impressive capability to block UV light. Zinc Oxide has an enormous refractive index (ability to bend light) and comes in right under the refractive capabilities of diamonds. This is why it is the first choice for powerful sunscreens. Below are
the two main uses for Zinc Oxide.

Cosmetic Use:

  • Zinc Oxide is one of the most powerful whitening pigments found today. It adds a bright white colour to lotions, creams and sunscreens.
  • In the DMK Cosmetics formulation Zinc Oxide is used as a reflector that will illuminate the face and offer better opacity and refraction to the Foundation when applied over the Crème Glacé. DMKC Zinc Oxide is Soft Vision™ encapsulated that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles without allowing colours to change on the skin after applications - as opposed to the standard milled minerals used in most formulations.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cosmetics companies are always interested in improving the aesthetic and performance properties of cosmetics. Currently available, colour cosmetics have vastly improved compared to concoctions that women wore in the early twentieth century. Much of the improvement is due to the availability of many different synthetic polymers that are customised to provide specific functional properties when incorporated into cosmetics. For example, in past years, longwearing cosmetics were achieved by incorporating natural resins such as; Sandarac Gum or Cellulose Polymers. These natural substances had many drawbacks, one of which was inconsistency in properties from batch to batch.

Now synthetic polymers such as silicone resins provide this property in addition to being consistent across batches. Such resins are inexpensive, relatively easy to manufacture and widely available. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula, Dimethicone Crosspolymer allows the Crème Glacé to spread on to the skin evenly, but it also disappears through evaporation after several minutes of being exposed to the air. This product replaces all oils that would normally be in a cosmetic that stay on top of the skin and cause major skin irritations and extended maintenance for professionals as well as individual users.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Mainly used as an emollient and thickening agent. Many cosmetic products contain this ingredient because it provides a light conditioning and silky after touch to the skin and hair. It’s also been shown to act as an antimicrobial agent and a preservative, particularly in products containing UV absorbers. You may find this ingredient in a variety of cosmetics such as sunscreen, facial moisturiser, anti-ageing treatments, shampoo/conditioner, body wash, self-tanner, eye cream, foundation and deodorant. In the DMKC formulation, this is used not only as a preservative but adds in the silky feel to the skin after application.

Bisabolol
It is a terpene and is classed as a alcohol and used as a miscellaneous skin-conditioning agent, as well as a fragrance ingredient. Bisabolol is also known as Alpha Bisabolol. It can be extracted naturally or derived synthetically. We use the naturally derived Bisabolol, which is obtained from the medicinal plant, Chamomile (Matricaria recutita), where the Bisabolol isomer is the active principle in the plant. In the DMKC formulation this is used as a skin conditioning agent.

Silia
Silica, when contained in foundation, adsorbs sweat and oils in skin, which prevents light reflection and keeps make-up on the skin longer. Spherical particle type of Silica improves the smoothness and spreading of foundation and cream. The smooth surface appearance of nail polish is created by Silica particles in the polish. Porous Silica is used as an ingredient in powder perfume, which can keep the fragrance on the skin for a longer time. Silica is contained in antiperspirant, which gives the smooth feeling after it is applied on the skin. In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Silica as an ingredient that absorbs oils as well provides a matte finish.

Bisabolo Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Oil
Pomegranate is a species of fruit-bearing, deciduous shrub or small tree that grows up to 5-8 m tall. The leaves are opposite or sub-opposite, glossy, narrow, oblong, entire, 3-7 cm long and 2 cm broad. The flowers are bright red, with five petals each. The fruit is between an orange and a grapefruit in size. Punica Granatum is extensively cultivated throughout Armenia, Azerbaijan, the Middle East, Afghanistan, Pakistan, North India, the drier parts of Southeast Asia, Peninsular Malaysia, the East Indies and tropical Africa. In the Northern Hemisphere, the season for pomegranate fruit is from September to February. In the Southern Hemisphere, the season stretches from March to May. In the DMKC formulation, pomegranate oil does the following:

  • Pomegranate is well known for antioxidant properties. Pomegranate Seed Oil is extensively used in cosmetic products to revitalise dull or mature skin.
  • The oil adds moisture to the skin and consists of natural estrogenic properties. It is anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial, improving skin elasticity and protecting the skin as well.
  • It provides relief from minor skin irritations, such as dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and sunburned skin. The oil obtains its strong anti-inflammatory properties from the conjugated fatty acids present in it.
  • Pomegranate Seed Oil also helps in reducing swelling and easing muscular aches and pains.
  • Some studies have also shown that the oil works to stimulate Keratinocyte proliferation, thereby promoting regeneration and strengthening of the epidermis.
  • Pomegranate is one of the few plants that are a source of conjugated fatty acids. It also contains an abundant amount of punicic acid, which has been called a ‘super CLA’. Its effect is more potent than the ordinary CLA. Studies suggest that this may support the immune system and build the natural ability of the body to fight against many ailments. Phytoestrogens, which are similar to the estrogens produced naturally by the human body, are also contained in Pomegranate Seed Oil. The use of Pomegranate Seed Oil has served to ease the symptoms associated with menopause and pre-menopause, such as mood swings, hot flashes, night sweats, vaginal dryness and diminished appetite.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf water are ingredients derived from the plant Aloe barbadensis, which is also commonly called Aloe Vera. Other species of Aloe, such as Aloe Andongensis, Aloe Arborescens and Aloe Ferox may also be used to derive cosmetic ingredients. These ingredients include Aloe Andongensis Extract, Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice, Aloe Arborescens Leaf Extract, Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts, Aloe Ferox Leaf Extract, Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice and Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract. In cosmetics and personal care products, ingredients derived from the various species of Aloe are used primarily in skin care preparations, make-up formulations and make-up removers and bath soaps. In the DMKC formula Aloederived ingredients enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness.

Nylon-12
The properties of semi-crystalline polyamides are determined by the concentration of amide groups in the macromolecules. Nylon 12 has the lowest amide group concentration of all commercially available polyamides thereby substantially promoting its characteristics:

  • Lowest moisture absorption: Parts show largest dimensional stability under conditions of changing humidity.
  • Exceptional impact and notched impact strength, even at temperatures well below the freezing point.
  • Good to excellent resistance against greases, oils, fuels, hydraulic fluids, various solvents, salt solutions and other chemicals.
  • Exceptional resistance to stress cracking, including metal parts encapsulated by injection molding or embedded.
  • Excellent abrasion resistance.
  • Low coefficient of sliding friction, in dry running against Steel, polybutylene terephthalate, polyacetal, and other materials.
  • High process ability.
  • In the DMK Cosmetics Foundation formula Nylon-12 is used for all of the above plus the Nylon-12 structure helps to conceal fine lines and wrinkles when combined with DMKC encapsulated pigments.

Technical Application

Materials needed:
DMKC Crème Glacé
Stainless Steel Spatula
Stainless Steel Palette
Tissue

Crème Glacé prepares the skin for the application of DMK Foundations. Crème Glacé can be used over any skin type of condition. It is a blend of medical grade silicones and Zinc Oxides. General application of this concentrated product should be done with the DMKC Crème Glacé Brush. A non-latex hydro-foam Sponge can be used, however the Brush will apply the crème glacé in a sheer application. If you see the skin turn a ‘noticeable’ white, you have applied too much. Remove the excess with a DMKC non-latex hydro-foam Sponge. Clean the Crème Glacé Brush with DMKC non-flammable Brush Cleaner.

  1. Using the DMKC Stainless Steel Palette and Spatula take a small amount of Crème Glacé from the container. On a normal size face, this will be about 2 Spatulas full. Clean the Spatula with a tissue.
    Step 1Step 1
  2. With the DMKC Crème Glacé Brush (or the DMKC Sponge), take a moderate amount of Crème Glacé from the palette using the Crème Glacé Brush. Apply a thin layer on the client’s face using gentle strokes in all directions. The Crème Glacé will appear a little white at first and will disappear as you work in on to the skin. Be sure to apply Crème Glacé in all areas including eye and orbital areas.
    Step 2Step 2
  3. Update the DMK Cosmetics Prescription pad with the Crème Glacé information.

Tech Tip: Crème Glacé can also be used to create a moose by mixing ½ Crème Glacé with ½ of the selected Foundation. This sheer Foundation is great for men and clients not looking for full coverage.

Note: If the Crème Glacé ‘beads up’ on the skin, this is due to excessive dryness. Remove the excess beading with the DMKC Powder Brush or wipe gently with a Powder Puff and continue. After the application is complete, allow about 30 seconds to one minute for the Crème Glacé to set.

 

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